Italian Pick of The Week, 2/25/08
Submitted by THE WINE SCHOOL OF PHILADELPHIA
Mauro Molino Barolo, 2000, Piemonte
What makes a Barolo truly great? Or how does one make a great Barolo? Two sides of the same coin in the ongoing debate among the “modernists” and “traditionalists” of Piemonte, who are both seeking the same goal - production of Barolos worthy of assuming the mantle of Wine of Kings, and King of Wines.
Mauro Molino’s Barolo would fit into the modernist camp, a wine already drinking well and fully realized from a stellar vintage. You are treated to the requisite Nebbiolo perfume of roses and earth, soft and inviting. This wine rolls onto the palate, layers of earth and tobacco carrying fruits that become darker mid-way through and continue to a finish of dry leaves. Unlike the old style Barolos that needed a decade or more of bottle aging to be tamed, the tannins are finely integrated with unobtrusive acidity that speak well of this wine’s potential to age gracefully.
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